All About Herringbone Chain Necklaces

What makes a herringbone chain lie so smooth, how to wear and layer it, and how to store it so it does not kink.

Watercolor of a gold and a silver herringbone chain with small 14K and 925 stamped bars
Watercolor of a gold and a silver herringbone chain with small 14K and 925 stamped bars

If you have ever seen a necklace that looks almost like liquid gold or silver lying flat against the collarbone, there is a good chance it was a herringbone chain. It is one of our favorite chains to wear and to style, and it is also one that people have a lot of questions about. Here is what makes it different, how to wear it, and how to keep it looking smooth.

What is a herringbone chain?

A herringbone chain is made of many small, flat, slanted links laid side by side in alternating directions. Together they form a smooth, flexible ribbon instead of a row of round links. The name comes from the herring fish, because the pattern looks like the fine bones of its skeleton. You may also see the same V-shaped pattern in tweed fabric and brick or wood floors, where it is called a herringbone weave.

Chains with this kind of flat, woven look have been made for a very long time, and they are often traced back to jewelry from ancient Egypt. The modern herringbone chain became especially popular in the 1970s and 1980s, and it has come back around in a big way over the last few years.

Why it looks so good

Because the links are flat, a herringbone chain lies smooth on the skin and reflects a lot of light. When you move, it catches the light across its whole surface instead of in small points. That is why even a fine herringbone chain looks polished and a little dressy, and a wider one can stand in for a statement necklace on its own.

Our herringbone pieces

Our Naya Herringbone Chain Necklace comes in two versions: 14k gold vermeil in a fine width, or 925 sterling silver in a bolder width. Gold vermeil means a sterling silver base with a thick layer of gold on top, so you get the warm gold color over a real precious metal. Naya comes in 16, 18 or 20 inches.

If you like a layered look but do not want to put it together yourself, the Gioia Mary & Herringbone Necklace Set pairs a silky herringbone chain with a sturdy figaro chain and a Mary medallion pendant, all in sterling silver. You can wear the pieces together or split them up.

How to wear it on its own

A herringbone chain does not need much help. Worn alone, it gives a clean, put-together look with a simple tee, a button-down shirt, a sweater with an open neckline, or a slip dress. A 16 inch length sits close to the collarbone, which is where herringbone looks its best for most people. Try 18 inches if you want it to sit a little lower, or if you are wearing it over a higher neckline.

How to layer it

Herringbone is a great anchor for layering because its flat, smooth texture contrasts nicely with round-link chains and pendants. A few combinations we like:

When layering, leave about 2 inches between each length so the chains each have their own space. Mixing gold and silver is completely fine too, especially if you repeat both metals somewhere else in your outfit, like your earrings or rings. You can browse more options in our layering necklaces and chain necklaces collections.

Caring for a herringbone chain

This is the part we want everyone to read. Because herringbone links are flat and tightly fitted, the chain can kink if it gets bent sharply, twisted or knotted. A kink is a crease where the links get stuck at an angle, and it usually cannot be fully smoothed out. A little care prevents it:

  • Store it flat. Lay it straight in a jewelry box or a flat pouch. Do not hang it from a hook or bunch it up in a pile with other chains.
  • Take it off before sleeping. Rolling around at night is one of the most common ways herringbone gets bent.
  • Do not wrap it tightly around your fingers, or twist it to get a pendant onto it. Herringbone is not made for sliding pendants on and off.
  • Keep it away from water, lotion and perfume, especially gold vermeil. Put it on after you get ready, and take it off before showering or swimming.
  • Clean it gently with a soft, dry cloth. For sterling silver, a silver polishing cloth will take care of tarnish.

Our jewelry care page has more on storing and cleaning gold and silver.

A few questions we get

Can I wear a herringbone chain every day? Yes, with the care above. Treat it a little more gently than a cable or box chain and it will stay smooth.

Is it good for sensitive skin? Our herringbone chains are sterling silver or gold vermeil over sterling silver, both nickel-free.

What if something goes wrong? Every piece comes with our 1-year warranty. If it breaks, we will repair or replace it. You can read more in our FAQs, or send us a message with any questions.

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